PFD’s and Wetsuits
Water events can be the most challenging and most dangerous aspect of adventure racing. Two of the three widely publicized adventure racing deaths and several life changing incidents have involved water incidents. Moreover, hypothermia while on the water is the most common reason for racers to be removed from longer racers.
Fortunately, shorter races will seldom involve dangerous water conditions. Nonetheless, reasonable precautions, including the use of a quality life preserver (pfd) and proper clothing will make any race safer and more enjoyable.Lifevests/PFD’s
There are five basic categories of life preservers. Type I preservers are the largest and offer the most protection, however, Type III are most commonly used for adventure racing, and they are lighter and more compact. Self-inflation pfd’s are not permitted by most race directors, and are typically not appropriate foradventure racing.
In addition to be categorized by “type”, PFD’s should also indicate their buoyancy or “float”. Type III devices are required to have a minimum of 15.5 lbs float when new. Larger type III’s will give up to 17 lbs of float when new. It is important to note that pfd’s will lose buoyancy over their life span. You can test the buoyancy of a vest by tying on 15 lbs of metal (a weight set, concrete, a few cast iron pans!) and see if it still floats. If not, time to buy a new vest. Keeping pfd’s out of the sun, dry and well ventilated will substantially expand the life span of a vest. However, don’t expect a twenty year old pfd to be worth much no matter how much love and care it has received.
Once you have picked you pfd, make sure you know how to fit it. A rapidly moving river is no time to discover that you pfd is so big or so poorly fitted to you, that while the pfd floats, your head goes under water. Pfd’s need to be snug. More information on fit.
Tricks of the trade? There are some, but the main trick is to get an effective pfd. Some racers have purchased child-spec pfd, since they are lighter and cheaper. However, a child’s vest may have a little as 7 lbs of float. If you’re a lean racers, carrying a heavy pack, that 7 lbs of float won’t get you much!
Suggestions? Well if you want the best of the bunch and will pay for it, consider the Hydraulics vest, which includes a place for your water bladder. At $200 it’s overkill for most novice racers, however. (It is also not a USCG approved device)
For the first season or two at least, consider a low end, but highly effective vest like the Body Glove Radius. With a street price of around $25, this style vest gives 15.5 lbs of float, and has wide armholes that work well while paddling. A smaller vest will likely be more comfortable while paddling, so if between sizes, consider going with the smaller sized vest. Similar USCG approved type III vests may be purchased at discount sports stores.
Wet Suits
If you are looking to d your first race, it’s unlikely that a wetsuit will be necessary or beneficial. However, as races become longer and involve disciplines like river boarding, wetsuits become a critical gear item.
Picking the right wetsuit involves numerous tradeoffs – a kayaking wetsuit is great for kayaking, but not so good if you are using it for swimming or river boarding when significant kicking is involved. A Tri-wetsuit will feels fine for kayaking but will wear out or be damaged quickly. What to do? If two (or more!) wetsuits aren’t in your future, you’ll have to find the best compromise you can. I believe the most common wetsuit used by adventure racers is a 3 mm “farmer john” kayaking wetsuit. An important safety point – in the very rare instance where your race will involve actual swimming (as opposed to river boarding or tubing) you probably should go for a tri suit, as kayak suits are difficult and potentially dangerous to swim in.
Regardless of the style of suit you buy, you’ll need to make sure it fits properly. The links below provide guidance on how to pick the right suit, and how to find proper fitting.
Wetsuit tips and reviews (several years old)